Sommer Alte Reben Grüner Veltliner 2023

This wine is like taking a time machine back to how dry gruner veltliner was produced before the advent of modern cellar technology. The dominant character – in a positive sense – is celery root and yellow beets, but there’s also a touch of dried flowers. Medium-bodied, well-structured and crisp, in spite of moderate acidity. Long, chalky finish that pulls you back for more. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Score – 93. (Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com, Nov. 19, 2024)