Sommer Riesling Handwerk Weinland 2020

After 40 years of tasting riesling, I thought I knew it all, but this wine from the Leithaberg region of Austria reinvents dry riesling in a startling way. Smoky and flinty nose with plenty of citrus-peel and apricot aromas (fresh and dried) woven into the concentrated and creamy palate, the finish very long and graceful, but without a hint of the crispness that’s considered “classic” for this grape. Still very youthful. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. (jamessuckling.com,May 22, 2022)