Tsimbidi Monemvasia Kydonitsa 2024

Is it a coincidence that the ancient Spartans came from a part of Greece that produces the uncompromising Kydonitsa? Here in Laconia, in the south-eastern corner of the Peloponnese, this variety has recently bounced back from the brink of extinction largely thanks to George Tsibidis of Monemvasia Winery. It is just starting to be more widely planted but should be a variety to watch over the next 10 years, even if current volumes are small. This bottling is firm but rather shy, yet opens up in the glass with air. It’s certainly a white wine that benefits from decanting, to allow its tightly coiled, concentrated flavours of quince, citrus pith, artichoke and wax to emerge. There’s a concentration and seriousness that doesn’t come across as heavy, but this still demands some food – perhaps roast pork and celeriac? Drinking window: 2025-2028. (Jason Millar,decanter.com,July 6, 2025)