Lustau Almacenista Antonio Caballero y Sobrinos Amontillado del Castillo Sherry

Amontillado gets unfairly overlooked. It’s the apparently intermediate wine – not fino, not oloroso – that’s not as cultish as palo cortado. Try this: a star at the recent dinner of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino at London’s Savoy hotel. From a family solera established in the 19th century, now in the Castle of San Marcos in El Puerto. Saline, hazelnuts, orange zest, spicy, an elegant riot of flavour. Drinking window: 2021-2031. Part of Sarah Jane Evans, MW: My Top 10 Spanish Fine Wines of 2021. Score – 96. (Sarah Jane Evans, MW, decanter.com, Dec. 23, 2021)