Château Cantemerle 2020

This has the tight tannins of the vintage with damson and an edge of bitter dark chocolate, but it is a success all the same – confident, succulent, elegant and classic. Philippe Dambrine retires as director of the estate as of this vintage, replaced by Laure Canu from Château Angélus. A yield of 45hl/ha, 40% new oak, 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Drinking window: 2028-2042. Score – 93. (Jane Anson, decanter.com)