Domaine du Pélican Arbois Savagnin Ouillé 2023

Smoky, toasty notes infuse an appealing core of honeyed apple, almond, paraffin and sun tea. Open-knit and succulent, with a salty mineral rush and a slight grip of tannins holding firm. There’s a bitter quinine kick to the finish, which lands firm and clean, with just a kiss of butter. Drink now through 2029. (Kristen Bieler,winespectator.com,Jan. 19, 2026)